New York-based designer Telfar Clemens teams with Babak Radboy of meta-brand Shanzhai Biennial for his forthcoming collection of customizable sportswear, presenting it as an exercise in “mainstream” surrealism: highly polished, eminently accessible, yet stranger than any underground production. In a mise-en-abyme of branding staged at New York Fashion Week, models emerged from a video curtain displaying their own faces, mirrored those expressions on the runway, and for the finale, reappeared on the t-shirts of companions coming from backstage. The ambient video is cooked down and set to the sounds of Future Brown, a group consisting of Fatima Al Qadiri, J-Cush Teklife and Nguzunguzu, who debut their instrumental “Marbles” from their upcoming album. At once highly conceptual and obsessively practical, minimalist and irreverent, countercultural and mainstream, the TELFAR line maneuvers with cunning the fashion landscape by defining a brand which is neither conceptual nor accessible. Simply put, it is extremely normal.